A few kilometres from the Govardhan parikrama road, in a village called Parsoli, there is a broad stepped lake that people call Chandra Sarovar, the moon lake. Locals say that when the moon is full the lake holds the moon so completely that it seems there are two. They also say it is one of the places where Krishna danced the Rasa.
It is also the village of a poet. A blind singer named Surdas lived and sang here, and Braj still sings his songs. Between the lake and the poet, Parsoli makes among the gentlest side trips from Govardhan.
The story in a few lines (what the guide page does not retell)
The Bhagavatam describes the Rasa on an autumn full-moon night in the forest by the Yamuna (Srimad Bhagavatam 10.29 to 10.33). Local tradition places one of those nights at Parsoli, where the lake reflects the moon. The identification is local, and the Bhagavatam does not name the place.
Surdas, the blind poet of Krishna, who lived from about 1478 to 1583 by common accounts, is remembered as having lived and sung here, serving Shrinathji nearby. His Sur Sagar contains songs of the baby Krishna that Braj still sings. A hut and a memorial near the lake are said to mark his place.
Rasa-sthali tradition
A rasa-sthali is a place where the Rasa Lila is held to have taken place. Vrindavan has several, and Parsoli is the one in Govardhan. In Gaudiya and Pushtimarg memory, Chandra Sarovar is the place where Radha and Krishna danced in the moonlight while Surdas, centuries later, sang the story. The two traditions meet at the same water.
Pilgrims come on Sharad Purnima for gatherings, according to our guide pages. If your visit can fall near the full moon, it is a rare time to see the lake.
On an ordinary evening few visitors come, and the lake belongs to the villagers and the birds.
Why it matters on the yatra
Most visitors do the Govardhan parikrama and miss the places a little off the road. Parsoli rewards the effort. It joins two of Braj's great themes: the Rasa, which belongs to Vrindavan and Govardhan, and the poetry of devotion, which belongs to its singers.
It is also a calm place at the end of a long day.
Getting there from Vrindavan, Mathura and Delhi airport
Chandra Sarovar is about 28 km from Mathura Junction, 30 km from Banke Bihari and around 180 km from Delhi airport. It lies about 4 km from Mansi Ganga and 5 km from Radha Kund, just off the parikrama route. The cab can drop you at the approach in the village.
Ask the driver for the exact road, as signs are few. We have not verified the route on the ground.
Timings and what changes by season (check locally)
The lake is an open place and can be seen by day. Evening is best, especially at full moon. No timings were found for the memorial or the hut, so check on the spot. In summer, go at dusk, and in winter, in the afternoon.
Evenings at Sharad Purnima bring gatherings in the village.
Remove shoes where the steps begin.
A quiet evening at the lake
Reach the lake an hour before sunset. Walk along the stepped edge, find a place on the stone and watch the light change. In the village, children may come to look at you. Greet them, and they will often show you the way to the memorial. Peacocks call from the trees on the far bank.
As the sun goes down, the surface of the water turns from silver to gold to a deep blue. If the moon is up, it appears first as a pale disc in the east. This is the hour to recall the story: the flute, the forest and the circle of dancers.
Then walk back to your car before it is fully dark. The village road is unlit.
Dress, phones, crowds and kind manners
Dress modestly. Photographs of the lake are fine, but ask before photographing people or the memorial. Crowds are light except on festival nights. Do not bathe unless you are sure of the water and steps.
Keep your voice low near the memorial of Surdas. He is remembered as a man of deep humility.
Surdas and Sur Sagar
Surdas is best known for the Sur Sagar, a vast collection of songs in Braj bhasha about the child Krishna, his mother and his games. Many are sung in temples today. Hearing one on the steps of the lake, in the voice of a villager, is a simple, moving experience.
The Wikipedia article on Surdas is a good starting point for the poet's life, but the details are debated, so hold them lightly.
Where to eat nearby (link to the food guide)
Parsoli has no known restaurants. Tea stalls may be found on the road. Carry water and a snack, and plan lunch at Mansi Ganga or Radha Kund. Our Govardhan food note lists unconfirmed names.
Keep a torch in your bag for the walk to the car, and tell your driver the time you plan to return.
Plan it with: nearby stops, and a lala:Cab guide
Combine Parsoli with Mansi Ganga, Radha Kund and Kusum Sarovar for an evening on the hill. A lala:Cab driver finds the village road and a guide can recite a verse of Surdas at the water.
Questions, answered
Is Chandra Sarovar on the Govardhan parikrama?
It lies just off the route near Govardhan, at Parsoli.
Who was Surdas?
A blind poet-singer devoted to Krishna, c. 1478 to 1583 by common accounts, author of the Sur Sagar.
When is the best time to visit?
Evening, and best of all under a full moon.
Timings, entry rules and fees change. Please confirm on the day with the temple or your driver.
- Exact location and road
- Timings and access to Surdas memorial
- Parsoli as site of the Rasa is local tradition
- Dates of Surdas
Walking this path soon?
If you would like a driver who knows the lanes and the timings, the lala:Cab app is there when you are ready. No advance, no pressure.