In the old town of Vrindavan, a short walk from Seva Kunj, there is a small temple that many visitors pass without noticing. No great queue stands outside. There is only a low doorway, a courtyard and, inside, a dark stone that is said to carry a footprint of Krishna.
This is Radha Damodar, one of the quietest and most loved temples of the Gaudiya tradition. If you are in Braj during the month of Kartik, which begins this week, it is also one of the most beautiful places to be at dusk.
The story in a few lines (what the guide page does not retell)
Damodar is the name given to Krishna when his mother Yashoda tied him to a wooden mortar with a rope around his belly. The child pulled the mortar between two arjuna trees and freed the two sons of Kubera from a curse (Srimad Bhagavatam 10.9 and 10.10). The rope, dam, and the belly, udara, give the name.
In this temple, tradition says, Jiva Goswami installed the deity carved by Rupa Goswami. Beside it sits a Govardhan stone, the Giriraj shila, which Sanatana Goswami is said to have carried. In old age he could no longer walk around Govardhan, and Krishna gave him the stone, with his footprint, saying that circling it would be as good as circling the hill. The footprint is local tradition, with Sanatana's story told in Gaudiya writings.
Why it matters on the yatra
For anyone who cannot walk the 21 km of Govardhan, this temple offers a practice that is gentle and real: circle the shila four times, with devotion. Many elders and many busy travellers do exactly this.
The temple holds the samadhis of Rupa Goswami and Jiva Goswami and a bhajan kutir. It was founded, by traditional dating, in 1542. For those who follow ISKCON, it is dear for another reason: A. C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada lived in a small room here from 1965 and began writing his Bhagavatam translation. His rooms are open to visitors.
How to circle the shila
The practice is simple. Stand before the stone, fold your hands, and walk around it clockwise, keeping it on your right, four times. Many pilgrims chant softly, some carry a lamp or a flower, and some do it in silence. Take your time. A sevak will correct you gently if you stand in the wrong place.
The idea behind it is the idea behind all of Braj: that devotion, not distance, is what counts. If you cannot walk the hill, the hill comes to you. If you can walk it, do both.
Please do not touch the stone unless you are invited to. Let your eyes and your breath do the work.
Getting there from Vrindavan, Mathura and Delhi airport
It sits near Seva Kunj, about 700 metres from Banke Bihari and about 13 km from Mathura Junction. Delhi airport is around 175 km, three hours or more. Cars cannot enter the lanes, so your driver drops you near the Seva Kunj crossing and you walk five to ten minutes.
Parking in a town lot may cost about Rs 50 to 100. Check locally, since fees change.
Timings and what changes by season (check locally)
In summer the doors open early, close around noon and reopen after five until the evening. In winter the second window starts about four and ends near eight. There is a rest in the afternoon. These are indicative.
In Kartik the evening lamp offering draws more people, and the temple stays open a little later.
Dress, phones, crowds and kind manners
Dress modestly, remove footwear at the stand and keep your voice low. Photography of the deity is not allowed, and other parts should be checked with the sevaks. The temple has a quiet bhajan atmosphere; the people who sit in the courtyard are singing, not waiting.
Beware touts selling special lamp sets at high prices. A simple ghee lamp or a few flowers are enough.
Kartik month parikrama
Kartik, from the day after Sharad Purnima to Kartik Purnima, is dedicated to Damodar. Devotees light a lamp each evening and sing the Damodarashtakam, an eight-verse prayer attributed to the Padma Purana, in praise of the rope-bound child. Radha Damodar is among the temples where this lamp offering is especially loved. Check the Padma Purana reference in your own text, as the chapter numbering varies.
The four circles of the Giriraj shila are done at any time of the year, but the Kartik evenings have a special glow. Many pilgrims also walk the Vrindavan parikrama in this month.
Quiet morning
The morning is the time to come. Sevaks sweep the courtyard, a few old residents sit with their prayer beads, and the temple is nearly empty. Walk around the shila slowly, count the four circles, and then sit for a few minutes near the samadhis.
Pair this with Seva Kunj, which is only 200 metres away, and Radha Vallabh and Nidhivan nearby.
Where to eat nearby (link to the food guide)
The old town has sweet and chaat stalls within a few minutes, and the usual hot jalebi and rabri in winter evenings. For a seated sattvik meal, Govinda's at ISKCON is about 4 km away. See our food guide for more.
Plan it with: nearby stops, and a lala:Cab guide
A good morning begins at Radha Damodar, continues to Seva Kunj, Radha Vallabh, Radha Raman and Nidhivan, and ends at Banke Bihari when the doors open. A lala:Cab driver waits at the lot, and a guide can tell the Goswamis' stories at each door.
Questions, answered
What is the Giriraj shila at Radha Damodar?
A stone from Govardhan hill that Sanatana Goswami carried. Devotees circle it four times as a substitute for the Govardhan parikrama.
Did Prabhupada live here?
Yes, he lived in a small room at Radha Damodar from 1965 and began his Bhagavatam translation there.
When is the Kartik lamp offering?
Daily in the month of Kartik, from the day after Sharad Purnima to Kartik Purnima. Check a panchang for dates.
Timings, entry rules and fees change. Please confirm on the day with the temple or your driver.
- Darshan timings and Kartik evening hours
- Photo rule in the courtyard
- Foot-print on the shila is local tradition
- Padma Purana reference for Damodarashtakam
- Wikipedia: Radha Damodar Temple, Vrindavan
- Srimad Bhagavatam 10.9 (Vedabase)
- Chaitanya Charitamrita on Sanatana Goswami and the Giriraj shila (Antya Lila 13, to be checked)
- Damodarashtakam, attributed to the Padma Purana, Kartik Mahatmya (verify)
Walking this path soon?
If you would like a driver who knows the lanes and the timings, the lala:Cab app is there when you are ready. No advance, no pressure.