Many pilgrims come home with a magnet, a shawl and a box of peda. A few come home with something that lasts: a book that carries the stories they heard, or a recording of the songs that played in the lanes. In Braj these are easy to find, and not hard to choose well.
This note suggests what to look for, how to tell a good edition from a poor one and how to bring it all home safely. No shop is named, as none could be verified.
What to buy and why
The core books of Braj are few. The Srimad Bhagavatam, especially its tenth canto, is the text of Krishna's life. The Bhagavad Gita is Krishna's teaching on the battlefield. The Gita Govinda of Jayadeva, twelfth century, is the poem of Radha and Krishna. The Sur Sagar of Surdas holds songs of the child Krishna in Braj bhasha. Hit Chaurasi of Hit Harivansh, in 84 verses, is the base text of the Radha Vallabh tradition. The Kelimala, verses of Swami Haridas, belongs to Banke Bihari's tradition.
For first-time readers, a translation with brief notes is better than a bare text. Prabhupada's translations of the Gita and the Bhagavatam are on sale at ISKCON's bookshop, which our guide notes. Gita Press, Gorakhpur, publishes affordable editions of many Hindu texts across India.
Music and recordings
Braj is a land of song. You will hear kirtan at ISKCON, samaj gayan at Radha Vallabh, Haridasi music in the old town, haveli sangeet at Dwarkadhish and rasiya in the Holi season. Recordings of the Damodarashtakam, the Gopi Gita and the Venu Gita can be had in the shops, and Surdas's songs are widely recorded.
Buy music on a memory stick or download it, if you can, as CDs may not be playable at home. Listen to a sample before you buy, since quality varies.
Even a modest recording is a good companion for the journey home. Play it in the car on the highway out of Mathura, and the lanes will return to you for a while.
If you are unsure what to ask for, say the name of the temple whose music you liked. A shopkeeper will usually know what was playing there.
Where to buy (named lanes and shops, check locally)
In Vrindavan, bookshops are found near the main temples and at the ISKCON complex, which has a bookshop for Prabhupada's translations. In Mathura, bookshops are near the Janmabhoomi and the bazaar. Temple shops sell small prayer books, pictures and recordings.
Ask your driver or host which shop they trust. The best shops let you look and turn pages without pressure.
How to choose an edition
Pick a translation in a language you read easily, with the original verse beside it if you want to learn the Sanskrit. Look for a translator you know or a publisher with a long record. A commentary from the tradition you love is a help, and a short one serves a newcomer more than a long one.
Hold the book in your hand. Check the paper, the print size and the binding, since you will be reading in dim lamp light. If the book will travel, a paperback is often wiser than a hardback.
Ask a temple priest or a scholar for a recommendation. They will usually name a favourite gladly.
How to tell real from fake and fair prices
In books, the concern is not usually fakes but poor printing, abridged texts and misleading titles. Check the publisher, the year and the number of pages. Look for a clear statement of the translator. Beware of beautiful gift editions with little text. Print prices are marked on most books, and a fair shop sells at or near them.
In recordings, check that the media works and that the artist is named. Be wary of very cheap discs with no label. Paying much above the printed price is a sign you should walk away.
Whatever you buy, ask the shop for a bill.
Include a few picture cards or small prints of the places you visited, which are light and easy to give.
Packing and carrying home
Books are heavy. Weigh what you buy, and think of the airline's allowance. Wrap them in a cloth and keep them dry. Carry a few in your hand baggage. If you need to send a larger order home, ask the shop about courier services, and keep the receipt. Memory sticks and small devices should go in your hand luggage.
A book that has been to Braj is a gift worth giving to someone at home.
Have the shop write the title of each book in a list, so that you can find them again.
A starter list
If you want only a few: one translation of the Bhagavatam, tenth canto; a Gita with a short commentary; the Gita Govinda of Jayadeva in a good translation; a small selection of Surdas; and a recording of kirtan or the Damodarashtakam. Add a children's picture book of Krishna's stories if you travel with a family.
- Srimad Bhagavatam, canto 10
- Gita with commentary
- Gita Govinda, a good translation
- Selected songs of Surdas
- Kirtan or Damodarashtakam recording
- A children's Krishna storybook
Related guides
See our guides to Mathura peda gifts, fair prices and bargaining, and the story pages on the Raas, Damodar and Govardhan lilas, whose source chapters are good places to start reading. A lala:Cab driver will gladly stop at a shop he trusts.
Questions, answered
Which book should I buy first?
A good translation of the Bhagavatam's tenth canto or the Bhagavad Gita with a commentary.
Where can I buy Prabhupada's books?
At the ISKCON bookshop in Vrindavan, according to our guide.
How do I check a fair price?
Compare it with the price printed on the book, and ask for a bill.
Timings, entry rules and fees change. Please confirm on the day with the temple or your driver.
- Shop names, hours and prices (none verified)
- Gita Press availability in Vrindavan
- Airline baggage limits for books
- lala:Cab guide page: ISKCON Vrindavan (bookshop)
- Wikipedia: Gita Govinda
- Wikipedia: Surdas
- Srimad Bhagavatam (Vedabase)
Walking this path soon?
If you would like a driver who knows the lanes and the timings, the lala:Cab app is there when you are ready. No advance, no pressure.