Kesi Ghat Vrindavan: Yamuna aarti, boats and the evening

Kesi, the horse that came to devour Vrindavan

Kansa sent the demon Kesi to Vrindavan in the form of an enormous horse, neighing so loudly that the clouds scattered. Krishna waited with open arms. When the horse leapt to bite, he pushed his arm into its throat, and the arm swelled until the demon burst. The Bhagavata Purana tells this in the tenth canto, chapter 37.

Afterwards Krishna bathed at this spot, and the ghat has been Kesi Ghat ever since. From this lila he is called Keshava, the slayer of Kesi, a name devotees repeat all their lives in their prayers. The Vishnu Purana is also said to carry the same story (the guide notes it at book 5, chapter 16).

Why the ghat matters on the yatra

Kesi Ghat is the principal bathing ghat of Vrindavan. The red sandstone steps and pavilions took their present form in the 18th and 19th centuries, built by royal patrons whose names are best checked locally.

Chaitanya Mahaprabhu is remembered to have bathed here in 1515, according to the tradition recorded in the guide. The river now flows lower and further from the steps than in old photographs, and the distance changes with the season.

The Yamuna lamps at dusk

The aarti starts at dusk, so around 7:00 pm in summer and about 6:00 pm in winter. These are only rough guides because it follows the sunset, and the right hour for today is best asked at the ghat.

Come early, find a seat on the steps and let the evening arrive. Bells, small oil diyas floated on the water and the sound of chanting make a gentle farewell to the day. It is quite unlike the press of the temple lanes.

Boat rides and the water level

Boat rides run when the water is good, which in practice is the monsoon and the months after. In dry months the channel is shallow and rides may not be possible at all.

Boat touts sometimes charge per person, so settle the full price for the whole boat and the length of the ride before you step in. Wading in is unwise, since currents can surprise even a strong swimmer.

Getting there and parking

Kesi Ghat is about 1.5 km from Banke Bihari, 14 km from Mathura Junction and roughly 175 km from Delhi airport. Madan Mohan is about 1 km away and Imli Tala about 0.8 km, so the ghat fits easily between two old temples.

There are lots near the ghat approach and along the river road, at about Rs 30 to 50 as a rough figure. The approach is narrow, so bigger vehicles stop at the main road. Drop at the head of the ghat road and walk 3 to 5 minutes.

Manners, monkeys and small scams

Dress modestly, remove footwear on the lower steps and keep your voice low. Monkeys live on the ghat, so hold your glasses and snacks. Photography is allowed at the ghat itself.

Pandas may ask for ritual fees. You are free to refuse politely, or to agree a small sum beforehand if you truly wish for a puja. The steps are not step-free, so elders should go slowly and use a handrail.

Where to eat nearby

The ghat road has chai and chaat stalls, which are enough for an evening snack. For a full meal most visitors drive back toward the main town. Facilities for toilets are limited, so use them before you come.

A good order for the day is a temple darshan in the afternoon, the ghat at sunset and dinner after, which suits a winter evening best. In summer the stone steps hold the day's heat, so wait until the sun has gone before you sit. Carry a light shawl in December and January, because the wind from the river is sharper than the town lanes suggest.

Plan it with nearby stops

Give the ghat about 45 minutes with dusk as the best slot. In Kartik (October to November) the river is lit with lamps for the dip and Dev Deepawali, and Janmashtami brings its own crowds.

If you would like a guide to tell the Kesi story on the steps, or a driver who knows the lane to the ghat, lala:Cab can arrange both.

Questions, answered