Madan Mohan Vrindavan: the old hilltop temple above the Yamuna

The story in a few lines (what the guide page does not retell)

Sanatana Goswami, an elder disciple of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, lived near this hill in great simplicity, offering to his deity dry flour from the day's begging. Tradition says a merchant named Ram Das Kapur, sometimes given as Kapur Ram Das of Multan, had his boat stuck on a sandbank in the Yamuna. He prayed to the deity and the boat floated free. In thanks he built the great temple on this hill. The story is local tradition.

Another gentle tale says that the small boy Krishna used to come to Sanatana and eat from his food. The name Madan Mohan means the enchanter of the god of love himself. The nearby Kaliya Ghat reminds visitors of the Kaliya Lila (Srimad Bhagavatam 10.16 and 10.17).

Why it matters on the yatra

Madan Mohan is one of the three great deities of the Gaudiya Goswamis, with Govinda and Gopinath. Gaudiya teachers say Madan Mohan stands for the relationship, the first step in loving Krishna. The Chaitanya Charitamrita refers to Madan Mohan in this way (Madhya Lila 20).

For a visitor, it matters as a quiet place with history, and as a start of a morning walk along the Yamuna side.

The old deity at Karauli (Rajasthan)

The first deity is not in Vrindavan. During the unrest of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, Madan Mohan was moved for safety to Rajasthan and now resides at Karauli. A replica is worshipped on the hill. Our guide pages say so, and Govind Dev and Gopinath followed a similar course to Jaipur.

Devotees say that the replica is as much the Lord as the first, for the worship has not changed. Ask the sevaks if you wish to know more.

Getting there from Vrindavan, Mathura and Delhi airport

Madan Mohan is about 2 km from Banke Bihari, 13 km from Mathura Junction and around 175 km from Delhi airport. It is near Kaliya Ghat on the Yamuna side. Large vehicles and tempo travellers park away because the lane is narrow; a car can reach the bottom of the hill.

The climb is by a stair path of about a hundred steps. Leave your shoes below or with the gatekeeper.

Timings and what changes by season (check locally)

Summer timings are roughly from 5 in the morning to noon and from half past four to half past eight in the evening. Winter timings are a little later in the morning and end near eight. There is a midday rest. These are indicative, so confirm at the base.

Morning light on the stone is lovely, and the temple is quiet then.

What you see at the top

The summit holds a red sandstone shrine with a broad porch, a courtyard and a tall tower, the upper part of which fell or was damaged in later centuries. The view from the edge shows the town spread below and the Yamuna beyond, with the roofs of Vrindavan in a haze. In clear winter light, the river looks very near.

The hill is named Dvadashaditya in the books. Sanatana Goswami's samadhi is nearby. Pilgrims who know the Goswamis' lives often sit a while in the courtyard, reading or silent.

Take your time before descending. The stair is the same stair that thousands have used for four hundred years.

Wear shoes that come off easily, since you will leave them below.

Dress, phones, crowds and kind manners

Dress modestly and keep your voice low. Photographs of the deity are not allowed, and the exterior rule should be checked. Crowds are small and mostly local. Monkeys use the steps, so keep your spectacles and snacks hidden.

The long staircase is not suitable for those who cannot climb, and no easy alternative is known. Elders should rest on the landings.

On foot to Kesi Ghat

From the hill, the Yamuna side is a short walk. Kaliya Ghat is just below, and Imli Tala is about 800 metres away. Kesi Ghat, where the evening aarti is held, is roughly a kilometre from the temple. A good plan is to climb early, come down to Kaliya Ghat and sit for a while, then walk on to Kesi Ghat for the river.

You may also do the route in the evening, finishing with the dusk aarti.

Where to eat nearby (link to the food guide)

Small tea and snack stalls are near the ghat. For a proper meal, Govinda's at ISKCON is the usual sattvik choice, and the lanes of the town have sweet shops. See our Vrindavan food guide for cautions.

Plan it with: nearby stops, and a lala:Cab guide

Pair Madan Mohan with Kaliya Ghat, Imli Tala, Gyan Gudri and Kesi Ghat for a Yamuna-side morning. A lala:Cab driver finds the base of the climb and a guide tells the Goswami stories as you climb.

Questions, answered