NH19 vegetarian dhabas near Kosi
Roadside thali and paratha stops. Pick a busy one. No name confirmed
बारह वन
The Twelve Vans (forests) of Braj
Braj's sacred geography: twelve forests where Krishna's boyhood lilas unfolded.
ParikramaFurther outKrishna
The story: The twelve forests
The Puranic tradition divides Braj into twelve vans, forests. Seven are traditionally counted on the west bank of the Yamuna and five on the east. Madhuvan, Talavan, Kumudvan, Bahulavan, Kamyavan, Khadiravan and Vrindavan lie west; Bhadravan, Bhandirvan, Bilvavan, Lohavan and Mahavan lie east. Local lists differ on the sides, so check locally.
Each forest is tied to Krishna's lilas by local tradition: Talavan to the demon Dhenuka, Kamyavan to the forest of wishes, Vrindavan to the Rasa, Bhandirvan to the wedding banyan and the slaying of Pralamba, and Mahavan to the infancy. Details for the other forests: check locally. The Bhagavatam tells many of these lilas (for example 10.15 for Talavan and 10.18 for Bhandirvan) without listing the twelve; the list is from the Varaha Purana's Mathura Mahatmya.
Most visitors see Vrindavan, Mahavan and Bhandirvan. The rest reward those with time for a quiet Braj yatra.
Where this is told
- Varaha Purana (Mathura Mahatmya): the twelve forests
- Srimad Bhagavatam 10.15 (Talavan) and 10.18 (Bhandirvan)
- Individual lila attributions are local tradition
History
- The list of twelve forests is old. Many forests are now villages or small groves. Present state: check locally.
What to see
- Vrindavan, Mahavan, Bhandirvan, Kamyavan
- Smaller groves on the Braj parikrama
Key festivals
- Oct to Nov: Parikrama season
Timings and rules
| Summer darshan | Daylight hours. Check locally |
|---|---|
| Winter darshan | Daylight hours. Check locally |
| Closed | Check locally |
| Dress code | Modest clothing; shoulders and knees covered. |
| Photos and phones | Not inside any sanctum. Check locally for the rest. |
No reliable published timings were found. Check locally.
Parking and getting there
Parking
Varies by forest.
Charge: Small. Check locally.
Restrictions
- No special rule found. Festival days bring diversions. Check locally
Cab drop and walk
Drop: Ask your driver.
Walk: Varies.
Town-wide parking and transport rules: Further out guide.
Distances and nearby places
| From Mathura Junction | Varies |
|---|---|
| From Banke Bihari, Vrindavan | Varies |
| From Delhi Airport (IGI) | Varies |
Distances and drive times are approximate and vary with traffic and diversions.
Practical tips
Timing and crowds
Best time: Winter.
Crowds: Usually light. Heavier on festival days.
Monkeys: Possible. Keep spectacles, phones and food out of sight.
Comfort
Footwear: Leave shoes at the gate or with your driver.
Toilets: Limited. Use facilities before you arrive.
Accessibility: Uneven ground and steps are likely. Check locally.
Scams to avoid
- Touts who offer a 'special' puja or darshan for a fee
Where to eat nearby
Heera Foods (opposite the CNG station, Delhi-Mathura highway)
Veg thalis on the road in from Delhi, a handy stop for airport transfers
This list comes from desk research in published guides and listings. We have not visited these places for this guide. Walk and drive times are rough, and opening hours, prices and onion/garlic policy can change, so check locally before you go.
Common questions
Can all twelve be done in a day?
No. They are spread across more than 100 km. Plan several days.
Check locally
- Which forests are accessible
- The east-west assignment of each forest
Last checked: 2026-10-23. Sources for timings, parking and rules:
Radhe Radhe. Walk with love, we will take care of the road.
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